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Mounting a bath tub isn't specifically brain surgery, yet it does call for strong plumbing, carpentry, and sometimes, tiling skills. Replacing an old bathtub with a brand-new one is additionally a reasonably hard task. If the old bathtub is conveniently obtainable, the task can relocate immediately; if you need to open up a wall surface to eliminate the old tub and place the brand-new bath tub, the job is a lot harder. In either situation, the job is within a house handyman's skills, although you will need an assistant to vacate the old bathtub as well as embeded in the brand-new one. Make certain you have actually qualified yourself for the job and fit trying it. As opposed to employing a specialist to take over a halfway-completed project, it is far better to think about employing one before you start. Possibilities are you may need a professional plumber to make tube links.
This post will help you install a brand-new tub in your washroom if you have actually already bought a brand-new bathtub and don't require to alter the arrangement of your previous water supply pipelines.
Your tools and product checklist need to make up the following:

 

• New Bathtub


• Hammer


• Pipeline Wrenches


• Prybar


• Shatterproof glass


• Level


• Pliers


• Adjustable Wrench


• Putty Blade


• Screwdriver


• Cold Blade


• Measuring tape


• Pipeline Caps


 

Removing Old Touches

If you require to replace old taps with brand-new ones as a part of your setup, then the first thing you need to do is detach the water system. After doing so, switch on the taps to drain pipes any type of water remaining in the system. The process of removing the existing faucets can be quite bothersome because of the restricted accessibility that is frequently the instance.
Utilize a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a faucet tool to reverse the nut that connects the supply pipelines to the faucets. Have a cloth all set for the remaining water that will certainly come from the pipelines. Once the supply pipelines have been gotten rid of, utilize the very same tool to loosen up the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will certainly need to quit the single faucets from turning throughout this process. When the faucets have been gotten rid of, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleaned of any type of old sealing compound.
Before moving on to fit the new faucets, compare the pipeline connections on the old taps to the brand-new taps. If the old faucets are longer than the brand-new taps, after that a shank adapter is required for the new faucets to fit.

 

 

Fitting New Touches

If the tails of the brand-new taps are plastic, after that you will certainly need a plastic adapter to prevent damage to the string. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the faucet and also the other end supplies a link to the existent supply pipelines.
If you require to fit a monobloc, then you will certainly call for decreasing couplers, which links the 10mm pipeline of the monobloc to the basic 15mm supply pipeline.
Next off, position the tap in the placing hole in the bath/basin guaranteeing that the washing machines remain in place between the faucet and also the sink. Secure the tap in position with the manufacturer given backnut. Once the tap is safely in position, the supply pipelines can be connected to the tails of the taps. The faucets can either be attached by using corrugated copper piping or with normal tap ports. The previous type should be linked to the faucet finishes first, tightening up just by hand. The supply pipelines can later be connected to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have actually been attached.

 

 

Mounting the Bathtub

Using the two wood boards under its feet, put the tub in the needed setting. The wood boards are handy in evenly spreading the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards rather than focusing all the weight onto four little factors.
The following objective is to make certain that the bath tub is leveled all round. This can be attained by checking the spirit level and adjusting the feet on the bathtub until the spirit level reads level.
To install taps, fit the bottom of the furthest flexible tap connector to the suitable supply pipe by making a compression join; then do the same for the other tap.
Switch on the water supply and check all joints and brand-new pipework for leakages and also tighten them if essential. Load the tub as well as likewise inspect the overflow outlet and the normal outlet for leakages.
Ultimately, deal with the bathroom paneling as explained in the producer's instruction manual. Tiling and sealing around the bath tub needs to wait up until the tub has been used at least when as this will certainly settle it into its final placement.

 

 

Planning for the Installment

To start with, the sustaining structure provided with the bath ought to be fitted (if needed) according to the manufacturer's instructions. Next off, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When suitable the faucet block, it is very important to ensure that if the tap features a plastic washing machine, it is fitted between the bathroom as well as the taps. On a plastic bathroom, it is likewise sensible to fit a sustaining plate under the taps unit to stop stress on the bathtub.
Fit the adaptable faucet connectors to the bottom of both taps using 2 nuts as well as olives (sometimes provided with the tub). Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink electrical outlet hole, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bathroom. Use the nut provided by the producer to fit the plug-hole. Check out the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next, fit completion of the versatile overflow pipeline to the overflow outlet. Afterwards, screw the pipe to the overflow face which need to be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you make use of every one of the supplied washing machines.
Link the trap to the bottom of the waste electrical outlet on the bathtub by winding the string of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the catch to the outlet. Attach the bottom of the overflow tube in a comparable manner.The bath should now prepare to be suited its final setting.

 

 

Tiling Around the Tub

In the location where the bath satisfies the ceramic tile, it is necessary to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is necessary as the fitting can move sufficient to fracture a rigid seal, triggering the water to permeate the wall surface in between the bath and the tiling, causing difficulties with dampness and feasible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can choose from a range of coloured sealants to assimilate your fixtures as well as installations. They are sold in tubes and also cartridges, and can securing spaces approximately a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger void to fill, you can load it with spins of soaked paper or soft rope. Bear in mind to always fill up the bath tub with water before securing, to allow for the motion experienced when the bathtub is in use. The sealer can fracture fairly early if you do not think about this movement before securing.
Conversely, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be utilized to border the bathroom or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and reduce to dimension, are also quickly readily available on the market. It is advisable to fit the ceramic tiles utilizing waterproof or waterproof adhesive as well as cement.

 

How to Install or Replace a Bathtub

 

Find Your Dimensions

 

The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.

After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?

 

Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly

 

Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.

Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.

Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.

 

Cut Out the Old Tub

 

After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.

Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.

Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.

 

Install the New Tub

 

Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.

Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.

Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.

When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.

 

Secure the Tub

 

After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.

Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.

Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.

Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.

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